Jewelry Shopping Tips

It's summer, when many take cruises to the Caribbean and shop for jewelry. There are a few things to know and have before you plunk down your hard-earned cash.
First, get yourself either a jewelrer's loupe, which can be either 10x or 15x magnification, or a magnifying glass, also 10x or 15x. Why? You may ask. Simple. I do not want you buying fake gems unless it's on purpose.

If you get a loupe, here's how to use it. One of your eyes is stronger than the other. For me it's my left eye. Therefore, hold the loupe in the opposite hand. I hold it with my right hand. Now, put your elbows on the table so that they are braced and you hands will be steady holding your loupe. Hold the ring in the other hand. Bring the loupe all the up to your strong eye, but KEEP BOTH EYES OPEN. Otherwise, you will screw up your depth perception; it's how your brain works. Now, bring the ring up to where it comes into focus in the loupe. I want you to look at the edges of the facets. They should NOT be darker than the rest of the stone. Yes, natural gemstones can have “color zoning” which simply means that there are areas in the gem that have higher color saturation. However, if the edges are clearly darker than the rest of the gem, chances are it's not a genuine whatever.

Granted, many stones today are heat-treated or irradiated (heating a gemstone with various metals or chemicals) to inhance the color. Always ask whether the stone is treated or not. Ask what the treatment is. I recommend if the sales clerk cannot give you straight answers, don't buy from them.You will hate yourself if you buy a gemstone, whose color washes out when you wash your hands. Emeralds and opals may to be oiled, which is very typical and traditional. In arid climates like Mexico and Australia where opals are mined, they are store in vials of olive oil, to prevent their drying out and cracking.No worries. However, you need to know because natural, untreated gems are more valuable, and I want you to know what you have.

Inclusions are not necessarily a bad thing. Some inclusions can be very interesting(think Pink Panther) Those are identifying characteristics that your appraiser will look at when they plot your stone for insurance purposes. (Not all stones have identifying number lasered into them) No two stones will be the same, just like your identical twins (one is a wee bit taller than the other, etc). Further, natural stones will have stuff in 'em. Those inclusions can even help experts determine where the gem was mined. Lab created stones tend not to have them. Further, they also do not tend to have color zoning. Also, ask after the country of origin. Some countries have dubious mining practices and should not be supported.

If the color is more intense on top of the stone, which is called the “table”, compared to the rest of the stone, then it may be a “triplet”. That's a lesser quality stone with a slice of better quality gem glued on.
Thre are a lot of counterfeit rubies like that as well as tanzanites.

Speaking of tanzanites, I'm going to teach you a fifty dollar word: pleochrism (pronounced plea-o-crow-ism). It means that the stone will show two different colors, which occurs because light passes through and exits through more than one path. (Remember when you looked through a prism in grade school?) Tanzanite will show blue, like a sapphire, but it will also appear purple, too.

Alexandrites also exhibit pleochroism. They will show variations of red and green (By the way alexandrite is the June birthstone, along with the more traditional pearl). There are a few color-change sapphires. However, they are very rare and priced accordingly, tend to be small-less than three carats.

One more note, check to see if the metal(gold) is stamped.When buying gold jewelry, always look for the karat mark. Generally, the higher the karat, the more expensive the piece (unless it's “hot” or stolen). In the United States, 14-karat gold, or 583 parts pure gold, is the most common degree of fineness. Nothing less than 10 karats can legally be marked or sold as gold jewelry in the U.S. However, lower karatages, such as 8-karat gold and 9-karat gold, are popular in other countries.

18-karat gold is 18/24ths, or three-quarters pure gold, and jewelry of this fineness is marked 18k or 750, the European designation meaning 75% gold.

Always look for the karat mark or "k" that appears on the back of the piece. By U.S. law, if a karat mark appears you should also see the manufacturer's trademark to assure you that the karat marking is accurate. The country of origin should also appear.

In addition to the karat mark, every piece of gold jewelry should be stamped with a hallmark or trademark of its maker, and sometimes its country of origin. These designations assure you that you are buying genuine karat gold jewelry. Heavier pieces contain more gold.

Finally, if you buy a loose stone, don't have it set while you're there. You may become the victim of a bait and switch. And once you're back on the ship, or back home, there isn't anything you can do to recover your damages. If you find a setting that you cannot live without, buy the setting and take both home with you. Let your jeweler in your home town, whom you know and have a relationship with, set your stone.

Of course, there are lots of other things to look for. However, with these basics you are better prepared.

Anne the Beadbear
http://www.beadbear.com