Wednesday, June 29, 2011

Commentary on breakdown of the Kimberley Process:

http://www.jckonline.com/blogs/cutting-remarks/2011/06/29/human-rights-and-kimberley-process?utm_source=JCK+eNewsletters&utm_campaign=3062d47770-2011_06_29_Diamond_Wednesday6_27_2011&utm_medium=email

One has to start somewhere. And granted, while the desired outcome hasn’t occurred, that doesn’t mean that having an ongoing discussion won’t have a positive effect…eventually. Of course when greed and profit are involved, good intentions will be left by the wayside every time. Note the lack of cooperation by China and Russia, two countries notorious for their casual regard for human life. india too has their nose out of joint because they were making profit from cutting contraband stones. Remember how upset they were when Tanzania nationalized their mines, and demanded that tanzanite cutting be done in their country, rather than exporting all their rough to India. India’s shrieking and keening was outrageous and deafening, but wholly out-of-place.

And especially China with their abhorrent record with respect to human rights. From Tiananmen Square, to the ongoing and futile US efforts to coax China into not using toxic materials in their manufacture of children’s jewelry. The Chinese government just doesn’t care. They’re just as unconcerned about killing their own people as killing others’.

Russia is also first and foremost all about Russia. Between the behavior of their government and their crime-boss oligarchs, all pleas fall on deaf ears.

Furthermore both countries function under the premise that anything the West and in particular the US is for they are automatically going to be against. Just because.

Until some kind of way this becomes too (read expensive) painful to China, and Russia, and/or greed ceases to become a motivation, nothing is going to change. Angola , Zimbabwe, Sierra Leone will also continue to abuse their own people, because a) they can and b) its lucrative c) them’s what gots the biggest guns and the most ammunition makes the rules

Beadbear
http://www.beadbear.com

Friday, June 24, 2011

Fine Jewelers Advised to Avoid Beads

Reply to GUEST EDITORIAL: BEAD-WARE!
http://news.centurionjewelry.com/articles/view/guest-editorial-bead-ware


I have successfully designed and sold fine bead jewelry FOR YEARS! I am highly amused by the retail jewelers that have come so late to the retail success that bead jewelry has enjoyed since the time of the Neanderthals.
You remind me of all those old European fuddy-duddy royals that sneered at Za Za Gabor when she married that Austrian noble. They were appalled that she wore with her lavish diamond necklace, bracelets and rings one of her lovely crystal and platinum beauty crowns when she was “presented” to them in the 60’s.
The problem for all those who march in lock step and buy the same items is REDUNDANCY. Your customers that like beads and wear them do not want to see the same damn thing everywhere they go. They are a more sophisticated and educated shopper than you obviously suppose.
What you fail to apprehend is that women and men who wear and enjoy bead jewelry also wear gold, platinum and silver. I know because many of them are MY customers, some of whom have ten or more of my designs. They are very comfortable wearing both, either separately or at the same time.
Of course, I create exclusively one of a kind pieces, that are hand-knotted, with quality findings. Selling the identical items that everyone else has is a sure path to failure.
Further, in these difficult times, the savvy retailer has merchandise that appeals to all price points. Pam Danziger also observed that the affluent shoppers are now shopping more at Target than Nordstrum’s.
I don’t mean to rip on you but this is the same attitude that keeps retails from using all marketing tools, including the internet and social media, as Scott Galloway stated so clearly at the GIA Symposium.

Beadbear
http://www.beadbear.com

Thursday, June 23, 2011

Why Taxing Online Shopping Is Unfair

The hysterical lobbying for sales tax to be collected by online retailers reminds me of a story about two farmers on a dairy collective in the old Soviet Union.

Vanya and Vasili were farmers at the dairy collective. They both came to the collective at the same time, and were alloted the same amount of cows. All the cows on the collective grazed in the same fields and meadows. All the farmers drew water out of the same well. The farmers supplemented the grazing with feed purchased for them by the collective.The collective did well, and were able to purchase more cows the following year. There was even a little money left over that was divided among all the farmers, based upon their cows' production.Vasili used the money he received for his cow's milk to build a big house a heated barn. Vanya seemed to prosper too. However, he did not build a big house. Instead he and his family shared the barn with the cows, like they had the previous year.

Gradually, it came to be noticed that Vanya's cows always gave a little more milk. The calves were frisky and healthy. And the cream was said to be richest and sweetest of all the collective. Vanya with fewer cows earned almost as much as his neighbor. This was not lost on Vasili. He watched as Vanya's cows were led out every day by Vanya's wife, and brought back in every night by Vanya's children. His heart became small and hard like a stone.He became envious of his neighbor.

One day Vasili could stand it no longer. He stormed into the office of the collective, where Anya was entering the day's totals. “I cannot stand it”, he yelled. “It is not fair”.

“What is not fair, Vasili, inquired Anya mildly. “Vanya!” Vasili spat his neighbor's name. “What is not fair about Vanya?” Anya asked. Vasili's face contorted into a rictus of rage. “It is not fair”, he said repeated. “”I buy cows like Vanya. My cows graze same grass. My cows drink same water. Yet His cows give more milk! people say his cows give better milk-is richer, sweeter. That is not fair!”

”But”, protested Anya. “You have same kind of cows. You have more cows than Vanya. What you want me to do?” Anya was clearly perplexed at Vasili's fury. Vasili smiled evilly. “I want you kill his cows”.

All this is to say that brick and mortar stores have an advantage over online businesses. Customers can walk into the store, and try on any item on the premises. Customers can walk out immediately with their purchase. The customer pays sales tax as a condition of purchase.

Online venues do not enjoy that luxury. Many of us cannot afford to invest in a well-appointed boutique and inventory. We rely more heavily on the random kindness of strangers, and the algorithms of Google and Bing. We invest more heavily in advertising, in far more media outlets, as we do not have window displays that face out onto the street or the mall, where hundreds of shoppers pass by daily. Packaging is a greater investment. To entice business, many of us have to offer free shipping, even on returns, exchanges, or repairs which quite an expense given fuel prices today. We also have employees, contrary to popular myth. We pay inventory tax. The overhead may appear to be less, however the mark up is not as generous.

In conclusion, the argument that tax-free online shopping for customers puts the physical stores at a financial disadvantage is specious at best, and mendacious at worst.
Beadbear
http://www.beadbear.com

Monday, June 20, 2011

Origins of Republican Hate Speech Language in America Today

Neil Boortz’s comments last week are reminiscent of the attitudes of southern whites at the turn of the 20th century. The lynchings and Jim Crow laws were based of white fears of blacks developing themselves economically. This became quite evident in the aftermath of Katrina, when white outrage was sparked at the assistance offered New Orleans’ residents as they were evacuated, and were re-located into areas of the country that are content to have limited integration.The following quotes speak to the history of his comments:

WITHOUT SANCTUARY: LYNCHING PHOTOGRAPHY IN AMERICA

edited by James Allen
“Hellhounds”, written by Leon F. Lithwack
pp.12-13
“The cheapness of black life reflected in turn the degree to which so many whites by the early twentieth century had come to think of black men and women and permanently inferior, as less than human, as little more than animals. ‘We the people of the South don’t care to equal ourselves with animals’, a white Floridian told a northern critic.’the people of the South don’t think any more of killing the black fellows than you would think of killing a flea. And if I was to live 1,000 years that would be my opinion and every other Southern man’.A former governor of Georgia, William J. Northern, after canvassing his state in the interest of law and order, found the same disregard for black life. ‘I was amazed to find scores and hundreds of men who believed the Negro to be a brute, without responsibility to God. And his slaughter nothing more than the killing of a dog’.”

p.23
“The Negro as beast became a fundamental part of the South’s racial imagery, taking its place alongside the venerated and faithful Sambo retainer and whites were perfectly capable of drawing on both to sustain their self image“(my emphasis)

This is the basis of the Southern strategy, and current Republican efforts to reduce and in some instances, eliminate all assistance for poor and working class individuals, as is the basis for Neil Boortz’s disgusting iterations. The advent of Mr. Obama’s election exacerbates the belief that blacks and other non-whites have over-reached themselves. attaining the office of the President proves to those of his persuasion that their fears are justified. Consequently, Rep. Steve King (R-IA) is continuing to blast the government’s recent discrimination settlement with African-American farmers as “reparations” — and even predicting that the new Republican-led House will investigate it.

Today we see an active regeneration to those fears and active prejudices in part based upon (I suspect) white fears that non-whites will rise up and return the favor, as well as belief that non-whites in the US have “usurped” that which should be the purview of whites.

Wednesday, June 15, 2011

Why Not to Buy Chinese- Made Jewelry for Children

China downplays risk to children from lead poisoning: report

http://www.reuters.com/article/2011/06/15/us-china-lead-pollution-idUSTRE75E14O20110615?feedType=nl&feedName=ushealth1100

This news article today in Reuters proves that the Chinese don’t care about their own children, much less ours. That’s why I continue to stress that Americans should not buy their cheap jewelry products for our daughters. We know that lead is a serious toxin and quite detremental to the intellectual development of children.

We as a nation, have gone to considerable lengths to irradicate lead from any where there may be exposure.Since the 1960′s when the data first was presented, we mandated that lead be removed from household paint. We have emmission standards.We regulate safety standards for workers to protect them from harm and exposure. We continue to this day conducting tests on children that grow up in urban areas. Just recently in New Orleans two playgrounds were closed due to unacceptable levels of lead in the soil. These grounds had been treated previously, and then declared “safe”. The ground when the grounds re-opened, were covered with a cushioned surface, designed to be a further protection. recently, testing indicated that the lead had come through. Therefore work immediately commenced to removed more soil from the ground, re-seal the ground and again add a protective covering.

Given that level of concern for lead in the environment, why then do parents continue to allow their daughters to wear toxic jewelry, that comes in direct contact with the skin?

Another reason this is untenable is while poisoning our children, we are paying them to do it! That transfer of wealth takes away from our economic strength as a nation. A simple way to put a dent in that trend would be to shop for American made jewelry for your children. There are many jewelry artists and jewelry stores in everyone’s community. Support them. They are using quality, safe materials, including lead-free pewter, surgical steel, silver gold, goldfill, sterling silver, or vermeil which is an overlay of high karat gold (18-24) over silver. Goldplate is a lower karat gold (8-10) over base metal, such as nickel, brass, copper. There are items to accommodate everyone’s budget. THis is especially true at local art shows. When local artists are supported, the money spent there goes right back into the community.

Furthermore, in a recent survey conducted by the prestegious Pam Danziger of Unity Marketing, there continues to be a strong perception that goods manufactured in the United States continues to be perceived as better quality, better made. more valuable.

“According to a recent study by Unity Marketing, affluent consumers associate certain attributes with countries of origin of luxury goods, and the USA is associated with the qualities affluents desire most.

That elevates manufacturing decisions beyond the sourcing department to marketing where place of manufacture becomes a core attribute of product branding and positioning. “If you make your luxury product in the wrong place, you can seriously harm your brand,” warns Pam Danziger president of Unity Marketing and author of the recently published Putting the Luxe Back in Luxury: How New Consumers Values Are Redefining How We Market Luxury (Paramount Market Publishing, 2011).

“Affluent consumers believe that the country where luxury brands are produced implies information about the product quality, regardless of whether the company’s manufacturing standards and their production facilities in far-flung locales are held to high standards. Luxury consumers identified a slate of key qualities most important to them when they shop for luxury goods, including craftsmanship, authenticity, classic nature, distinctiveness, and trustworthiness. These attributes line up with affluent perceptions about domestically-produced luxury goods,” says Danziger.

However, this does not mean that affluent consumers are solely choosing goods that benefit them individually, with no thought of national impact. “Affluent consumers recognize the positive impact that purchasing domestic luxury goods can have on U.S. jobs and on the country’s way of life, and they want to contribute to that. It is a much more altruistic form of luxury consumption than we saw before the recession hit,” says Danziger

With this in mind, I call on everyone in the American jewelry community, our manufacturers, jewelry designers, jewelry retailers and wholesalers, the media who cover the jewelry industry, all jewelry associations, local arts councils to come together to promote our American-made quality jewelry. This really is a no-brainer. It could only be to our mutual benefit. If we present a united front to our consumers, parents wouldn’t have to worry about the safety of the jewelry that our children wear.

Anne the Beadbear
http://www.beadbear.com

Tuesday, June 14, 2011

Gold by Rajiv Mehta

This is such a great discussion of gold purity and explanation of karat weight, and how gold is tinted that I just had to share it with everybody.
Regards,
Beadbear
http://www.beadbear.com


Gold Colour
Gold, the most commonly used precious metal in jewelry has a distinct colour of its own, and is so popular, that the term ‘golden colour’ is used to refer to a blend of orange-yellow colour. But you will be surprise to know that there are much more rare and exotic, colors such as blue, purple,
red, and various shades of green and not just the orange-yellow shade called Yellow Gold. This is definitely the most popular of the gold shades. Yellow Gold is closely followed by White Gold and Rose Gold.

Gold Colour & Carat Relationship

18kt yellow gold is more yellow than 9kt yellow gold with 18kt yellow gold having a richer golden color making 18kt yellow gold a more popular choice of yellow gold than 9kt for ladies engagement rings.

9kt rose gold has a darker rose-copper color than 18kt rose gold which has a more subtle rose color.
9kt white gold and 18kt white gold have a similar white color (as normally both have a rhodium plating finish).

When trying to decide between the gold carat types there are three things to consider.
1. The metals performance with every day wear
2. The difference in color between the 9kt, 14kt and 18kt gold
3. The difference in price between the gold carats.
9kt, 14kt and 18kt are each suitable equally suitable for use in rings, earrings, pendants, bracelets and necklaces. Many people choose 9kt and 14kt for their earrings and pendants due to its lower price.

Tones

Jewelry can also be made using a combination of different gold colors. These jewelry items are sometimes called two-tone, three-tone or multi-colored gold..

Rhodium Plating

White gold rings are new they can be coated with another white metal called Rhodium. Rhodium is a metal very similar to platinum and rhodium shares many of the properties of platinum including its white color. The rhodium plating is used to make the white gold look more white. The natural color of white gold is actually a light grey color. The rhodium is very white and very hard, but it does wear away eventually. To keep a white gold ring looking its best it should be re-rhodium plated approximately each 12 to 18 months. Most local jewelers are able to rhodium plate jewelry for a cost effective pricet.

Purity

The gold content of yellow gold is measured in the same way it is measured in, for example white gold. So an 18kt white gold ring contains 75% pure gold, just as 18kt yellow gold contains 75% pure gold..

Rajiv Mehta
Surat Diamond Jewellery
http://www.suratdiamond.com/

Monday, June 13, 2011

How to Avoid Walkouts and Other Customer Service Disasters

http://pressroom.consumerreports.org/pressroom/2011/06/consumer-reports-survey-two-in-three-consumers-have-walked-out-of-a-store-because-of-poor-customer-service.html

The solution to most of those problems is have enough good quality employees. Of course, to attact those individuals, companies have to cease the ‘race to the bottom’, and having respect for the people hired. That means investing in your staff. Whether your accountant realizes it or not, your staff, not your inventory, is your most valuable asset! If you indicate that you do not repect your employees, it will reflect in your business. Customers will walk out, complain, take their business elsewhere. You will not be able to keep staff. Your business will suck. I call it voting with the pocketbook.

Pay your employees better. If you cannot afford more employees, you need to explain honesly to them where you stand financially and actively recruit your help to become “stakeholders’ in the day to day operations.Take the time to get to know all of your employees. Invite them to offer suggestions. Listen to them w/o being judgemental. Chances are they’ve got good ideas on how the business can be improved. Reward good performance, either monetarily or verbally in a way that demonstrates that you truly appreciate their efforts to make you look better.

Show your employees that you owner, manager etc.aren’t afraid to work. Let them see you cleaning cases, untangling chains, answering phones, cleaning jewelry, running the vaccum.Be able to jump in and lend a hand when necessarily without stepping on your employee’s toes. Don’t hide from your difficult customers.

Have constructive meetings where goals are clearly outlined, along with the means to accomplish them.Everyone should have goals, and a reasonable means of achieving and charting them. Provide training sessions to learn about new products, sales techniques.Don’t ream your employees out in public. In fact learn to criticize constructively.

Be what you wish to seem. Come in every day with a smile and a good additude yourself. If you are honest and with your employees, they will respect you and be loyal and your business will grow.
How am I doing?
http://www.beadbear.com

Wednesday, June 8, 2011

Lead Violation Causes Children’s Jewelry Kit Recall


Lead Violation Causes Children’s Jewelry Kit Recall
By JCK Staff
Posted on June 8, 2011

The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission and EKSuccess Brands announced on June 7 a recall of nearly 75,000 units of a children’s jewelry-making kit that contained excessive levels of lead.

The surface coating on some of the beads in the American Girl Crafts Pearly Beads & Ribbon Bracelets kit contained excessive levels of lead, the CPSC reported.

The kits were sold at Michaels Stores and other retailers nationwide from September 2009 through June 2011 for $8.

No incidents or injuries have been reported.

As I have said many times before:Stop Buying Your Children Anything From China! They do not give a damn about anything other than their own self-interests. They do not care whether our children are poisoned or not. We should care enough about our own children to buy safe, made in the United States beads and findings and supplies. They're out there, and they're better made than the cheap imports!

Contact your local Arts Council and find out who the glass artists are in your city town or community. Take your children to see how beads are made, and buy your local artists' beads. Purchase quality findings for your children, like stainless steel,sterling silver, gold fill or karat gold. Ask the craft store what the country of origin is for their products. Only buy the one that are made in America.

That will not only keep our money in our community as well as in our country. Your children will develop a better appreciation for the arts. You will support an artist in your community. What could be better?

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